461 - Fuentes Georginas
The temptation of the remote hot springs lured me in like a siren in the rocks of Scylla. It’s eerie calmness, still seduction, and enveloping fog were too much to bear.
Our goal for the day was to explore Fuentes Georginas springs, a staple in northern Guatemala. I’d found it browsing Google Maps a couple days earlier, and the jungle vibes called to me.
Haley and I are self-proclaimed hot springs connoisseurs, and I dare say we may be some of the top in the world. It was a 100% necessary stop, no exceptions. It couldn’t have been timed better either, as I had royally fucked up my foot hiking Volcán Santiaguito and was in much need of it’s healing waters.
We drove in around 7:30am, weaving the windy hillsides on our way to our fate. Farms were scattered in every square inch of the drive in, hanging onto steep hills and awaiting their daily water. I’ve never related to a farm plant more.
The gate opened at 8AM, and we walked into the chilly scene with mixed expectations. I had no idea what this place entailed, and we had driven through a pretty gnarly community to get here. Hot springs were also notoriously difficult to shoot, namely because of the steam, water, frigid air, and people who don’t want to be photographed while relaxing. I knew it was going to be a challenge.
Since we’d probably be leaving our camera gear in a bag on the side of the springs, I decided it would be best to bring my backup camera (my Sony a6600) just in case someone found a way to steal the loot. I also had a small inkling in the back of my mind that I might not even shoot today… I considered simply relaxing for once, and enjoying the hot springs instead of undergoing it’s treacherous trials.
We paid our dues, and walked the stone pathway to the waters. I looked around, and started to think about compositions. But I soon realized I was too cold to ponder this. I came out here in swim shorts and a t-shirt, and I needed to get in ASAP to warm up. Without much thought, I decided fuck it, I’m not taking photos. It was barely warm enough in the water, let alone out of it to take photos. I’m just going to take this day off.
The next two hours we spent trying to enjoy the place, but actually freezing our asses off. Unless we were swimming constantly, the lukewarm water would catch up to us. Once the sun came out, we hopped out like two fish in a bowl reaching for freedom and dried off.
We took a moment to reconsider our options over a stick of mayo and hot sauce covered corn on the cob. We’d heard rumors online that there were secret (hotter) springs here somewhere, but we didn’t know where. There also weren’t any photos online of this supposed area.
I’d tried asking a dude who worked here, but if I’m being honest I couldn’t understand a word he said. I swear the Guatemalan accent of Spanish is slightly different, because sometimes it feels like an entirely different language.
We circled the place, looking for any kind of lead. Eventually we stumbled upon a hidden path that seemed to lead deeper into a misty canyon below. As we approached, two men stopped us and told us to pay an extra couple bucks to enter this area. I think we’d found it.
As we followed the wooden steps down, we anxiously pondered what awaited us. It was a long hike down, I’m not going to lie. The people who build hot springs are goddamn heroes. The in and out process to build some of these remote locations has got to be intensive.
We took our final corner, and there they were. Some of the most serene hot springs I’d ever seen in my life. Imagine stone-built springs, surrounded by misty jungle, with a waterfall backdrop. It felt like something out of a movie- completely different from the hot springs above.
I instantly regretted my decision of dropping my camera off in the van after the first spring. FUCK. I guess now I have to enjoy it, because I sure as fuck wasn’t going to go all the way back up to grab it in the freezing cold canyon we were in. My own thought process was coming back to haunt me.
But the waters would soon seduce me. We spent the next couple hours pruning up like raisins, chatting with another American couple that joined us. The entire time we were there, no one else came. Everyone else, including all the locals, were up at the higher springs. It felt like we were all in on some big secret.
It was pure magic.
At a certain point though, we needed to get, because by now we’d spent about 4 hours underwater total. My skin wasn’t too happy. We decided we’d head back to the van to retrieve our cameras, because the thought of leaving this place without photos became too much to bear.
We returned to the springs with lunch in us, ready to shoot some photos. But again, the mysteriously hot water managed to get the better of me. I snagged a few half-hearted shots, decided to call it a day, and hopped back in. Deep down I knew the photos were shit. All I wanted to do was to finish them so I could get back in the water.
I swear this place had some kind of curse on me. I could not for the life of me take photos of it’s beauty… All I could do was enjoy it. I spent the next two hours in the springs, just relaxing and taking in the jungle vibes. I wrestled with the thought of going back out and getting real shots of this place, but cold kept holding me down.
It got to be about an hour before close, when I realized it was now or never. Do I let these forsaken waters take hold of me for another hour? Or do I fight them with all I got in a harsh battle against the piercing air?
I chose the latter. Very reluctantly, however. My soul hurt as I climbed out, dripping with steam. The icy air welcomed me into its embrace. All I wanted to do was melt away into those hot, magical, waters. But like soldier, I hounded the place to the last corner and landed on this composition as my best:
“Tranquility Lane”
Taken on Sony a7rIII + Tamron 17-28mm f/2.8
[ISO 1600 ~ 17mm ~ f/8 ~ 1/50s]
(Want a Print? Get one here.)
The stairs were the best way to capture this place, because they lead the viewer into the springs. The hut became the subject, surrounded by it’s peaceful waters.
Now you can finally see what we were dealing with. The perfect bliss, the perfect escape. I took note of what I was going through, and had Haley pose on another hot spring as a sort of Hot Springs Siren, which was exactly what this place was:
“Siren of the Springs”
Taken on Sony a7rIII + Zeiss 24-70mm f/4
[ISO 2000 ~ 58mm ~ f/7.1 ~ 1/80s]
(Want a Print? Get one here.)
I actually Photoshopped the bottom right corner of that place to expand the deck, because it was an ugly railing that threw the minimalism off.
This whole shoot leads me to an important lesson I always struggle with in adventure photography. The difference between work and play. The entire job entails working where people generally relax and vacation… Which creates an intense mental battle against the grain. It can be difficult to realize that the only reason you’re traveling to these places is because of your job to shoot them.
Sure, you can enjoy them like I did essentially all day, but I still have to put the work in when the time comes at the end of the day to walk away with a composition I’m proud of. It’s a tricky mistress, and when you’re in a place as tranquil and relaxing as this, it’s the ultimate test.
We walked back to the van as the place closed its doors, and almost didn’t want to leave. It was still calling me. I took one last look outside of the van before we crashed for the night in the parking lot, and saw this scene:
“Blue Lines”
Taken on Sony a7rIII + Zeiss 24-70mm f/4
[ISO 500 ~ 49mm ~ f/4 ~ 1/200s]
(Want a Print? Get one here.)
A mountain had popped it’s head through the mist, a final farewell. The jungle canopy below was where the magical waters laid.
In the next couple days, I knew I’d be put to the test again. Haley’s parents had rented her a baller AirBNB for the next three days, overlooking all of Lake Atitlan. Having a hot shower, a kitchen, hot tub, and killer view were going to be next level relaxation. But somehow I knew that if I could conquer Fuentes Georginas, I’d be ready for anything.
I’m on a mission to explore as much as humanely possible.
Want to see my progress? Check out the Adventure Map.
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